With incredible record-breaking temperatures in March, gardeners no doubt had many pleasant strolls surveying their piece of garden paradise.
And given the unusual mild temperatures and the brilliant forecasts, many put away their parkas and boldly declared spring was here for good.
But those were just the beginning days of spring. Many previous ones have seen snowstorms well into April. There is no point in pretending gardeners are not going to be out puttering. While there is no harm in cleaning up fallen branches and other winter debris, it is imperative they do not start any serious gardening.
The trick is not to wait too long to begin a cleanup. It’s much easier to cut plants back before old growth gets tangled up in the new. Also, soil needs time to become acclimatized to a new growing season. Strong sun rays are needed to warm and dry the soil.
It is best to wait until the soil can be easily loosened and redistributed. A good test proposed by the Farmer’s Almanac is to “Grab a handful of garden soil, if you can form a ball, the soil is too wet for planting. Chances are the seeds will rot. If it [the soil] crumbles through your fingers, it’s ready for planting [or working].”
Once the new season can be safely started, remove all dead material that has remained over the winter. Prune back perennials if they were not done in the fall. Usually herbaceous perennials will die back to the ground. They will look dead and will snap when pulled or bent.
Perennials that are shrub like will have strong stalks. Those plants will have a noticeable green colour when the bark is scratched.
Forsythia and lilac should not be pruned until after they have bloomed.
Many woody perennials will only bloom on new growth. A maximum of 30% of a bush should be pruned in any one year. Pruning will encourage new growth and start sending out flowering branches.
Those woody perennials will begin to show signs when it is time to prune. Buds will begin to open on the lower stems or any new growth at the base of the plant.
Evergreens and some perennials never go completely dormant. Like all others, they may need to be tidied up. A good haircut will not hurt them.
Epimedium, hellebores and heuchera retain their leaves all winter. Spring is the best time to prune.
Ornamental grasses that were not cut back in the fall should be clipped as soon as possible. It is best not to wait for any new growth. Cut all grasses as close to the ground as possible. They will rejuvenate themselves as the season progresses.
The care of roses is very contingent on the weather. Roses that are grown in warm climates will never go dormant and can be pruned in the fall. Ones grown in winter conditions must only be pruned in the spring when the leaf buds begin to plump up.
Many gardeners wait until the forsythia has fully bloomed before beginning to prune their roses. Pruning roses may be difficult for some gardeners, but it is very good for the plants. Generally roses are a strong plant that will survive pruning. It’s far better to cut them back then to let them grow rampant.
Most of what has been cleaned up can go into a compost pile. If space permits, it is wise to begin a new pile in the spring so that last year’s will be kept separate. To speed up the decomposition make sure the pile is always damp. Continue to turn over and use any decomposed material as available.
Ron Stevenson is a member of the Fergus Horticultural Society.
