Good intensions and expressions of concern are not enough. Protecting the environment is the most serious challenge we face today. Every Canadian can and must get involved, not just today but every day. – Roberta Bondar, 1994
A visit to any forest proves that Mother Nature has been composting since day one. Every leaf that falls to the forest floor will eventually become compost.
When nature processes decaying vegetation, it creates humus. Humus adds essential nutrients to the soil.
At a recent meeting of the Fergus Horticultural Society, Julie Kron, master gardener, praised the merits of garden composting.
Composting is “a natural process where organic waste, with the help of micro-organisms, fungi, bacteria, nematodes, insects, earthworms and air is turned into a friable organic matter called black gold,” said Kron.
By simply adding this black gold to your garden or mixing it with potting soil, it will keep your plants healthy and you will help save a part of our environment.
Composting creates nutrient-rich food that enriches soil structure, maintains moisture, while keeping plant diseases in check.
“Compost is a conditioner that enriches soil structure, buffers pH, neutralizes toxins and metals, while maintaining moisture,” said Kron.
It diverts waste from landfill sites, limits water pollution caused by runoff and reduces air pollution due to methane gas.
Kitchen scraps, garden waste and lawn clippings will not break down, if they are buried with the regular garbage.
Compost requires water and air to complete the rotting process.
Using compost reduces the need for irrigation in the garden, thus saving water. It also feeds the soil, making fertilizer unnecessary.
Kron stressed that organic gardening creates healthier plants. The use of compost adds valuable macro/micronutrients to the soil.
Insects and earthworms will naturally break down the material. Just keep a close eye on the moisture level. A dry pile will not make compost.
According to Kron, composting isn’t difficult – just add brown (carbon) and green (nitrogen) vegetation ingredients.
Begin placing brown (decays slowly) dry ingredients, such as wood chips, sawdust, cardboard, paper, pine needles, leaves or straw/hay on the ground.
Add green (decays quickly) wet ingredients, such as yard waste, coffee grounds, wood ashes, food waste, manure, alfalfa hay pellets, eggs, hair or feathers on top of the brown ingredients.
Add water if the pile becomes dry.
Compost bins generally come with a lid to keep moisture in, but if there isn’t one, simply add more water to replace the moisture loss.
Make sure that the mixture is not soggy. The correct water level is the secret to decomposition.
As more material becomes available, continue to add brown, then green ingredients throughout the process.
Periodically, turn over the mixture so that air can assist with the rotting process. If there is a good mix then turning is not necessary.
If any unpleasant odour occurs, sprinkle lightly with soil.
Kron prefers to have yearly piles. She suggests garden material should be continually added to the top of the pile or until it becomes too large, and a second one started.
As the bottom of the pile is closest to the ground, it will become compost first.
Do not add too much of any one ingredient or the compost will become too wet or dense.
Kron discussed the many different types of composters available from the simple to elaborate.
Black plastic cones do a great job. Place the composter in a sunny location for fast decomposition. It can also be put in a shaded area, but the process will take much longer.
The cone must have soil access and a lid which will build up heat and moisture. Any excess water (rain) must be allowed to drain away.
Do not add any cooked food, meat, oils, bones or the composter will attract animals. Excrement from animals should not be added.
When the compost no longer gives off heat and becomes dry, dark brown and crumbly, it’s ready to use in the garden.
Some points to remember: a shrinking pile means it is working.
Compost should be ready in 9-12 months.
This column is submitted by Ron Stevenson of the Fergus Horticultural Society.
