Winter blooming tulips can be an easy fall project for gardeners

The warm afternoons of fall will undoubtedly follow a long succession of frigid winter days. With a little planning, forcing tulip bulbs can bring an early spring indoors.

Budding fall bulbs certainly beat winter blues. They bring fresh palettes of lingering fragrances that provoke hopes for an early spring.

Pots of lavender hyacinths blooming on a window sill can make winter weary gardeners hope for warm spring days yet to come.

To ensure that spring bouquets hold winter at bay, now is the time of the year to purchase readily available bulbs for spring. Once, fall fades away, so will the availability of the bulbs.

Gardeners have the choice of “squirreling away” awaiting bulbs or begin to pot up their favourites now. Regardless of the preference, the bulbs must be kept in “cold storage” until 12 or 16 weeks. As the season progresses only 8 to 10 weeks is required.

Daffodils, tulips, hyacinths, crocus, muscari and lily of the valley can be forced into flower in late winter and early spring.

Purchase quality, large bulbs. Small bulbs yield small blossoms. Never mix varieties in the same container, due to the varying flowering dates. It’s best to keep to one kind of bulb versus mixing tulips and daffodils in the same pot.

Regardless, if the bulbs are potted ahead of time or just left to be potted up later, they must be kept in a cold, dry, safe location until they are scheduled to be moved inside.

Remember, squirrels love tulip bulbs and will completely devour an entire collection.

It is best to locate them in a well ventilated, barely heated area in the basement or garage before beginning the project. The bulbs must not be allowed to freeze.

A refrigerator vegetable crisper can also be used. Pots should be covered in plastic bags that have ventilation holes.

If bulbs are going to be planted at a later date, do not store them in sealed plastic.

To begin potting, make sure containers (terra-cotta or plastic pots with drainage) are well washed to prevent any insects from coming inside with the bulbs.

Use a good quality potting soil. No fertilizer is needed as bulbs have stored enough energy to flower once.

Bulbs that grow short stems should be planted so the top of the bulb it is just exposed in the soil.

Taller stems need to be planted deeper, to anchor them in the soil to prevent toppling.

Plant the bulbs close together in the pot. Usually 6 tulips or 6 daffodils, 3 hyacinths or 15 crocus bulbs will fit into a 15cm (6”) pot.

When arranging tulip bulbs, place the flat side of the bulb, next to the rim of the pot. The largest leaf will emerge and grow on that side.

Water thoroughly once planted. Do not allow soil to become dry.

Holding temperature is critical when working with bulbs. Do not allow dormant bulbs to be in 18°C (65°F) for a long period of time, else they will begin to sprout.

Bulbs must be given a cold temperature treatment of .2-9°C (35-48°F) for a minimum of 12–13 weeks.

Use a calendar to plan the debut of each planted pot or new planting.

Generally, bulbs bloom in three to four weeks. As winter progresses and the rays of the sun become more intense, bulbs may flower earlier.

Place pots in a cool but sunny location. It is best to keep the bulbs at a temperature of 10-15°C (50-60°F) until leaves begin to sprout.

Keep an eye on the dryness of the soil.

Try to avoid direct sunlight. Obviously, warmer temperatures bring on rapid growth.

Once the bulbs are blooming, move the pots to a cool location each night. The cooler temperatures will prolong the life of the flowers.

Ron Stevenson is a member of the Fergus Horticultural Society

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